The January 2024 Milan Fashion Week marked a significant moment in the landscape of men's fashion, continuing the journey that began in Florence with Pitti Uomo and setting the stage for the trends that will be solidified at Paris Fashion Week. This year, the event stood out for a pronounced trend towards hybridization, which manifested in a wardrobe rich with exchanges between masculine and feminine elements. Embellished jeans, sheer shirts, and a renewed interest in the slim fit dominated the runways, outlining a fashion that embraces diversity and celebrates uniqueness.
Prada: The Revolutionary Bourgeoisie
Prada's Autumn-Winter 2024-25 collection embodied an innovative interpretation of the bourgeoisie. Meticulous details such as inlaid leather belts, caps with visors, earmuffs, and trench coats with zippers instead of buttons contributed to creating looks that mix rebellion and formality. The color palette ranged from gray and beige to more vibrant shades like red, purple, and green. The techno soundtrack and unexpected accessories added a touch of modernity to a collection that revolutionized the very concept of bourgeoisie.
Fendi: Balmoral Feeling
Silvia Venturini Fendi presented a collection inspired by the rural and sophisticated style typical of the English countryside. Men's skirts, from pleated to pencil tube skirts that are actually trousers, dominated the scene, expressing a mix of country chic elegance and urban spirit. The highlight was a dark red leather coat, embodying all the inspirations of the collection. Accessories, such as the Siesta Bag and the Fendi x Devialet collaboration, completed the proposal with a blend of luxury and functionality.
Zegna: Monochromatic Luxury
Alessandro Sartori presented a collection for Zegna that combined luxury and simplicity. The show, described as an “idea laboratory,” highlighted men's fashion based on fine fabrics and relaxed-fit garments. The collection focused on four key elements: tops, bottoms, underpinnings, and accessories, all characterized by a monochromatic approach and an unmistakably Zegna style.
Gucci: Mirroring Between Genders
In his first men's collection for Gucci, Sabato De Sarno proposed a fascinating play of mirrors between the female and male collections. Six looks identical to those presented in the women's show in September appeared, inspired by '90s glamour tailoring. The urban atmosphere of Milan strongly influenced the collection, with looks reflecting the city's history and architecture.
Finally, the January 2024 Milan Fashion Week represented a significant crossroads for men's fashion, with designers daring to challenge traditional boundaries by proposing new visions. Hybridization, renewed interest in detail, and interaction between genders were the dominant trends, offering a refined and avant-garde vision of men's fashion for the Autumn/Winter 2024-25 season.